Splavovi: the river clubs
A splav is a club on a barge, moored on the Sava or the Danube. In summer they are the centre of Belgrade nightlife, with open decks and music until morning. Some play pop and folk, others house and techno, so check what a place plays before you go.
Most splavovi work with table reservations rather than tickets, and a group without a reservation can be turned away on a busy night. Book a day or two ahead, and arrive together.
Winter is indoors
From late autumn to spring most of the river goes quiet and the night moves into clubs and bars in the city. The rhythm stays the same, only the address changes.
Skadarlija: kafanas and live music
Skadarlija is a short cobbled street in the old town, lined with kafanas: traditional restaurants where bands move from table to table playing old city songs. It is the classic Belgrade dinner for a group. Go hungry, order to share, and expect the evening to run long.
Cetinjska and Dorćol: bars
Right behind Skadarlija, the courtyard of an old brewery on Cetinjska Street holds a cluster of bars and small venues side by side. It is where many nights begin, because a group can settle in one place and still drift between several.
Dorćol, the neighbourhood around it, is the area for cocktail bars and craft beer, and for a quieter evening where people can hear each other.
Savamala and the riverfront
Savamala, by the Sava under Branko's Bridge, has restaurants that turn into clubs as the night goes on, and it is the natural last stop before the splavovi along the river.
Good to know
Reserve for groups almost everywhere on weekends. Smoking indoors is still common in bars and clubs. For the ride home, use a taxi app rather than hailing a car on the street.
